White Balance is an aspect of photography that many digital camera owners don’t understand or use – but it’s something well worth learning about as it can have a real impact upon the shots you take.
So for those of you who have been avoiding White Balance – let me introduce you to it. I promise to keep it as simple as possible and keep what follows as useable as I can:
At its simplest – the reason we adjust white balance is to get the colors in your images as accurate as possible.
Why would you need to get the color right in your shots?
You might have noticed when examining shots after taking them that at times images can come out with an orange, blue, yellow etc look to them – despite the fact that to the naked eye the scene looked quite normal. The reason for this is that images different sources of light have a different ‘color’ (or temperature) to them. Fluorescent lighting adds a bluish cast to photos whereas tungsten (incandescent/bulbs) lights add a yellowish tinge to photos.
The range in different temperatures ranges from the very cool light of blue sky through to the very warm light of a candle.
We don’t generally notice this difference in temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So unless the temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will generally look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to make these adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how to treat different light.
So for cooler (blue or green) light you’ll tell the camera to warm things up and in warm light you’ll tell it to cool down.
Adjusting White Balance
Different digital cameras have different ways of adjusting white balance so ultimately you’ll need to get out your camera’s manual out to work out the specifics of how to make changes. Having said this – many digital cameras have automatic and semi-automatic modes to help you make the adjustments.
Preset White Balance Settings
Here are some of the basic White Balance settings you’ll find on cameras:
* Auto – this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.
* Tungsten – this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). It generally cools down the colors in photos.
* Fluorescent – this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.
* Daylight/Sunny – not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings.
* Cloudy – this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode.
* Flash – the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch.
* Shade – the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little.
Manual White Balance Adjustments
In most cases you can get a pretty accurate result using the above preset white balance modes – but some digital cameras (most DSLRs and higher end point and shoots) allow for manual white balance adjustments also.
The way this is used varies a little between models but in essence what you do is to tell your camera what white looks like in a shot so that it has something as a reference point for deciding how other colors should look. You can do this by buying yourself a white (or grey) card which is specifically designed for this task – or you can find some other appropriately colored object around you to do the job.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Learning about Exposure – The Exposure Triangle
The three main elements that need to be considered when playing around with exposure by calling them ‘the exposure triangle’.
Each of the three aspects of the triangle relate to light and how it enters and interacts with the camera.
The three elements are:
1. written a post on ISO – the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to light
2. Aperture – the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken
3. Shutter Speed – the amount of time that the shutter is open
It is at the intersection of these three elements that an image’s exposure is worked out.
Most importantly – a change in one of the elements will impact the others. This means that you can never really isolate just one of the elements alone but always need to have the others in the back of your mind.
3 Metaphors for understanding the digital photography exposure triangle:
Many people describe the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed using different metaphors to help us get our heads around it. Let me share three. A quick word of warning first though – like most metaphors – these are far from perfect and are just for illustrative purposes:
The Window
Imagine your camera is like a window with shutters that open and close.
Aperture is the size of the window. If it’s bigger more light gets through and the room is brighter.
Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutters of the window are open. The longer you leave them open the more that comes in.
Now imagine that you’re inside the room and are wearing sunglasses (hopefully this isn’t too much of a stretch). Your eyes become desensitized to the light that comes in (it’s like a low ISO).
There are a number of ways of increasing the amount of light in the room (or at least how much it seems that there is. You could increase the time that the shutters are open (decrease shutter speed), you could increase the size of the window (increase aperture) or you could take off your sunglasses (make the ISO larger).
Ok – it’s not the perfect illustration – but you get the idea.
Sunbaking
Another way that a friend recently shared with me is to think about digital camera exposure as being like getting a sun tan.
Now getting a suntan is something I always wanted growing up – but unfortunately being very fair skinned it was something that I never really achieved. All I did was get burnt when I went out into the sun. In a sense your skin type is like an ISO rating. Some people are more sensitive to the sun than others.
Shutter speed in this metaphor is like the length of time you spend out in the sun. The longer you spend in the sun the increased chances of you getting a tan (of course spending too long in the sun can mean being over exposed).
Aperture is like sunscreen which you apply to your skin. Sunscreen blocks the sun at different rates depending upon it’s strength. Apply a high strength sunscreen and you decrease the amount of sunlight that gets through – and as a result even a person with highly sensitive skin can spend more time in the sun (ie decrease the Aperture and you can slow down shutter speed and/or decrease ISO).
As I’ve said – neither metaphor is perfect but both illustrate the interconnectedness of shutter speed, aperture and ISO on your digital camera.
Note:(the width of the hose is aperture, the length that the hose is left on is shutter speed and the pressure of the water (the speed it gets through) is ISO.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Ten Tips For Better Photo
1. Hold It Steady
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
Ten Tips For Better Photo
1. Hold It Steady
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
Ten Tips For Better Photo
1. Hold It Steady
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.
2. Put The Sun Behind You
A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.
3. Get Closer
The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.
4. Choose A Format
Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.
5. Include People
Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.
6. Consider Variety
You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.
7. Add Depth
Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.
8. Use Proportion
The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections.
Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.
9. Search For Details
It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.
10. Position The Horizon
Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Black and white photography tips.
With today’s digital technology, transforming colour images into black and white photographic prints is pretty straightforward but don’t throw away your rolls of black and white film.
Black and white photography is still regarded as a favourite with many photographers - dull landscape scenes become more dramatic with black and white photography.
Most subjects that are shot in colour can be taken with black and white film. Portraits are still widely taken by professional photographers all over the world.
One of the most popular uses of black and white photography is with wedding photographs. More couples are now opting for a combined wedding album of black and white images that really capture the mood and emotions of the special moment.
Black and white landscape photography is becoming popular again and is more suitable for taking images when the day is dull or too bright. If a scene does not have an entire spectrum of different colours, consider viewing it as a black and white photograph.
Do we need to learn black and white photography tips in a world of colour? You must choose the answer to this yourself - but here are a few pointers that will help you to make your decision.
1 Black and white photography is becoming more popular with the general public, and for that reason alone… new opportunities will open up for you.
2. In some situations, black and white photography has the tendency to make photos look more like works of art - fine art images will sell better in galleries.
3. Landscape images often lack a multitude of colours, using black and white film when shooting daytime photos will add impact to your photography.
4. There is also the value of using your own darkroom - the thrill of developing your own film and processing your images.
The same principles for colour photography apply to black and white photography. If you have mastered the art of photography, taking images with a roll of black and white film should be easy.
Filters are just as important with black and white photography. There are fewer filters available for black and white photography, but one that you should use is the polarizing filter. This filter is very effective for both black and white photography and colour photography. The polarizing filter makes the sky stand out to give your landscape images serious impact. It also helps to reduce glare from the sun’s rays - which is very handy for urban or architectural photography.
Exposure with black and white photography is a small bit easier. Black and white film handles light more easily than colour film can - which gives you greater room for error. Most black and white film allows you to capture detail when you underexpose at two stops. With overexposure the range is greater - between five and seven stops are allowed. This is known as film latitude. With colour film you are limited to a latitude of one stop each way.
This does not mean that you can become lethargic when taking black and white images. It means that if you do make a mistake the results may be acceptable.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
New Styles in Wedding Photography
Wedding photography is an ever-changing discipline which demands creative expertise, imaginative and prescient vision, and extremely technological proficiency.
In past times wedding ceremony photography has been typically tied to rigid posses devoid of very much reverence for the main tale, emotion, love, as well as behind the actual scene activities on the affair.
Even though there continues to be a large portion within the wedding photography which practices classic wedding photography having its pre-planned positions, as well as re-enactment of the particular wedding ceremony top situations like the kiss, the actual wedding ring exchange, and so on., the present day marriage husband and wife requires a far more modern day technique to their own wedding ceremony.
Marriage ceremony photojournalism has become in style in the past several years. The fundamental concept driving it has been the actual capture of the wedding ceremony events without the interference or perhaps direction from the actual wedding photographer. The wedding photographer will there be in order to catch the true heart and soul on the wedding day. Because of this authentic technique the pictures undoubtedly are a accurate portrayal from the wedding ceremony. Really hard core wedding photographers will likely be completely in opposition to posing virtually any marriage ceremony associated occasion. In the event that it does not not take place in the wedding ceremony it will not end up being documented. It may include friends and family group pictures.
Many professional photographers provide a hybrid method to wedding photography, typically combining conventional as well as traditional wedding photography. With this strategy the particular wedding photographer concentrates on recording wedding ceremony day however the coverage as well incorporates a session using the husband and wife for conventional posed as well as semi-posed photographs as well as friends and family group pictures.
The most recent development within wedding and reception photography is actually towards an even more contemporary technique. Influenced by popular bridal publications the wedding photographer attempts to help make the particular couple's dreams realistic.
Within the vogue wedding and reception photography method the actual objective is always to help make the wedding couple appear their finest. The passionate interplay is actually glamorized to it's optimum manifestation. Any everyday husband and wife turns into like wedding celebs. Focus on details is essential to obtain an ideal appearance. This kind of technique demands quite a lot of creative talent guiding the camera as well as excellent personal computer photograph cropping and editing proficiency to create a distinctive image. 1 / 2 the picture is created within the camera with the actual other half attained though electronic digital photo editing as well as adjustment.
Which type is the most suitable, will be for you to determine. In our practical experience a large section of the actual marriage newlyweds wish to seize the reality, specifics as well as ambiance from the wedding ceremony yet simultaneously they've got dreams regarding their own wedding and reception and exactly how they ought to appear.
In past times wedding ceremony photography has been typically tied to rigid posses devoid of very much reverence for the main tale, emotion, love, as well as behind the actual scene activities on the affair.
Even though there continues to be a large portion within the wedding photography which practices classic wedding photography having its pre-planned positions, as well as re-enactment of the particular wedding ceremony top situations like the kiss, the actual wedding ring exchange, and so on., the present day marriage husband and wife requires a far more modern day technique to their own wedding ceremony.
Marriage ceremony photojournalism has become in style in the past several years. The fundamental concept driving it has been the actual capture of the wedding ceremony events without the interference or perhaps direction from the actual wedding photographer. The wedding photographer will there be in order to catch the true heart and soul on the wedding day. Because of this authentic technique the pictures undoubtedly are a accurate portrayal from the wedding ceremony. Really hard core wedding photographers will likely be completely in opposition to posing virtually any marriage ceremony associated occasion. In the event that it does not not take place in the wedding ceremony it will not end up being documented. It may include friends and family group pictures.
Many professional photographers provide a hybrid method to wedding photography, typically combining conventional as well as traditional wedding photography. With this strategy the particular wedding photographer concentrates on recording wedding ceremony day however the coverage as well incorporates a session using the husband and wife for conventional posed as well as semi-posed photographs as well as friends and family group pictures.
The most recent development within wedding and reception photography is actually towards an even more contemporary technique. Influenced by popular bridal publications the wedding photographer attempts to help make the particular couple's dreams realistic.
Within the vogue wedding and reception photography method the actual objective is always to help make the wedding couple appear their finest. The passionate interplay is actually glamorized to it's optimum manifestation. Any everyday husband and wife turns into like wedding celebs. Focus on details is essential to obtain an ideal appearance. This kind of technique demands quite a lot of creative talent guiding the camera as well as excellent personal computer photograph cropping and editing proficiency to create a distinctive image. 1 / 2 the picture is created within the camera with the actual other half attained though electronic digital photo editing as well as adjustment.
Which type is the most suitable, will be for you to determine. In our practical experience a large section of the actual marriage newlyweds wish to seize the reality, specifics as well as ambiance from the wedding ceremony yet simultaneously they've got dreams regarding their own wedding and reception and exactly how they ought to appear.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Top 10 Techniques for Better Pictures
Making beautiful photographs involves nothing more than a bit of thought. While it often helps to have decent equipment, all you really need is to take a moment before each shot to think clearly about what you are attempting to capture or create.
The following guidelines are intended to help novice, non-artistic, and/or non-technical picture-takers immediately improve their photography.
If you would like to:
* Bring home much more pleasing memories from your travels;
* Make more artistic portraits of your family, pets, or friends;
* Be satisfied and excited instead of disappointed every time you look at your photos; or
* Simply enjoy the process of making pictures more;
Then read, study, and implement these simple guidelines.
1)Move in Closer
Each time you spot a subject, snap a shot and then move in closer for a better shot. Having your subject almost fill the frame helps your viewer understand and appreciate your photo. Also, details are often more interesting than an overall view.
Keep moving in closer until you are sure the photo will successfully represent your subject.
2)Be Quick
If it is at all possible that your subject may move, bolt, fly away, stop smiling, or just get tired of waiting for you to take the picture, shoot once right away.
Practice getting quicker and quicker to the draw.
Do not worry about taking too many pictures and do not wait until you're absolutely certain all the knobs and buttons are in their correct position.
3)Compose Your Picture With Care
Even if you don't plan on selling your photo to the Smithsonian, make every effort to keep it balanced and beautiful. On one level or another, everyone responds better to a picture that has all elements in balance.
Strive to lead the eye along an interesting path through the photo, with the use of strong lines or patterns.
* Keep the horizon level;
* Crop out extra elements that you are not interested in (more on this is the next tip);
* Consciously place your subject where you think it most belongs rather than just accepting it wherever it happens to land in the photo;
* Play with perspective so that all lines show a pattern or lead the eye to your main subject;
* Work with the Rule of Thirds.
4) Be Selective
Discern what you are really interested in and center your efforts on getting the best photo of this subject, whether it a still life, your funny cat, your doggy, a friend, a family matter, a mood, a place or culture.
Then be sure to keep anything that would distract out of the picture. Go as far as Ansel Adams did to remove unwanted elements.
The easiest way to do this is to watch your borders - the edges of the view you see through the camera's viewfinder. Then recompose if anything - such as an unattractive telephone wire, an old soda can, a distracting sign, your finger, or your camera strap - hangs into your picture.
It can become more difficult if you want to, say, shoot a San Francisco cable car without a single distracting telephone line. But even in such a difficult case, you have many options.
You can:
* Focus in on a close-up that tells the whole story;
* Move around until you arrange the telephone lines into a neat pattern that leads to the subject; or
* Take a panning shot that makes the cable car remain in focus while the background goes blurry.
5)Focus on Your Subject
Practice shooting with different apertures and monitor the results afterwards to learn how depth-of-field affects your photo.
You will find that a smaller depth-of-field (and smaller f-stop #) focuses all the attention upon your subject. This is great for taking a picture of your child, your dog, or your husband - subjects stand out against a blurry background.
Likewise, you will find that a greater depth-of-field (bigger f-stop number) will make everything from here to eternity appear in focus. This will help make those landscapes fascinating and lovely.
You will also want to become familiar with the way your camera focuses. If it is a simple point and shoot camera, you will likely indicate which part of the picture to focus on by following these steps:
1. Aim so the object you want in sharp focus is in the center of the viewfinder.
2. Press the shutter button down half-way and hold it.
3. Move your camera until you have the composition you like best (see tip #3).
4. Press the button down the rest of the way to take the picture.
The following guidelines are intended to help novice, non-artistic, and/or non-technical picture-takers immediately improve their photography.
If you would like to:
* Bring home much more pleasing memories from your travels;
* Make more artistic portraits of your family, pets, or friends;
* Be satisfied and excited instead of disappointed every time you look at your photos; or
* Simply enjoy the process of making pictures more;
Then read, study, and implement these simple guidelines.
1)Move in Closer
Each time you spot a subject, snap a shot and then move in closer for a better shot. Having your subject almost fill the frame helps your viewer understand and appreciate your photo. Also, details are often more interesting than an overall view.
Keep moving in closer until you are sure the photo will successfully represent your subject.
2)Be Quick
If it is at all possible that your subject may move, bolt, fly away, stop smiling, or just get tired of waiting for you to take the picture, shoot once right away.
Practice getting quicker and quicker to the draw.
Do not worry about taking too many pictures and do not wait until you're absolutely certain all the knobs and buttons are in their correct position.
3)Compose Your Picture With Care
Even if you don't plan on selling your photo to the Smithsonian, make every effort to keep it balanced and beautiful. On one level or another, everyone responds better to a picture that has all elements in balance.
Strive to lead the eye along an interesting path through the photo, with the use of strong lines or patterns.
* Keep the horizon level;
* Crop out extra elements that you are not interested in (more on this is the next tip);
* Consciously place your subject where you think it most belongs rather than just accepting it wherever it happens to land in the photo;
* Play with perspective so that all lines show a pattern or lead the eye to your main subject;
* Work with the Rule of Thirds.
4) Be Selective
Discern what you are really interested in and center your efforts on getting the best photo of this subject, whether it a still life, your funny cat, your doggy, a friend, a family matter, a mood, a place or culture.
Then be sure to keep anything that would distract out of the picture. Go as far as Ansel Adams did to remove unwanted elements.
The easiest way to do this is to watch your borders - the edges of the view you see through the camera's viewfinder. Then recompose if anything - such as an unattractive telephone wire, an old soda can, a distracting sign, your finger, or your camera strap - hangs into your picture.
It can become more difficult if you want to, say, shoot a San Francisco cable car without a single distracting telephone line. But even in such a difficult case, you have many options.
You can:
* Focus in on a close-up that tells the whole story;
* Move around until you arrange the telephone lines into a neat pattern that leads to the subject; or
* Take a panning shot that makes the cable car remain in focus while the background goes blurry.
5)Focus on Your Subject
Practice shooting with different apertures and monitor the results afterwards to learn how depth-of-field affects your photo.
You will find that a smaller depth-of-field (and smaller f-stop #) focuses all the attention upon your subject. This is great for taking a picture of your child, your dog, or your husband - subjects stand out against a blurry background.
Likewise, you will find that a greater depth-of-field (bigger f-stop number) will make everything from here to eternity appear in focus. This will help make those landscapes fascinating and lovely.
You will also want to become familiar with the way your camera focuses. If it is a simple point and shoot camera, you will likely indicate which part of the picture to focus on by following these steps:
1. Aim so the object you want in sharp focus is in the center of the viewfinder.
2. Press the shutter button down half-way and hold it.
3. Move your camera until you have the composition you like best (see tip #3).
4. Press the button down the rest of the way to take the picture.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
How To Make Money With Photography
There are many ways to make money online with photography, but a popular and fairly new way is through Microstock Photography websites.
Microstock photography is simply stock photography that's sold at deep discounts. Clients are able to license stock photos for just $1 or $2, and photographers earn money each time a client chooses one of their photos.
Microstock photography is considered to be still in it's infancy, and some people feel it's wrong to sell photography at such low prices. Particularly since many professional photographers invest a lot of time and money on equipment, learning, and photo shoots.
For the beginning photographer though, Microstock photography agencies can be ideal places to start. Since entry requirements are not overly restrictive, many hobby photographers with inexpensive cameras have already started making a nice second income from their pictures.
How Does It Work?
The process of making money from your photography through Microstock agencies is fairly simple.
1. Research popular Microstock photography agencies online. There are quite a few of them, but you'll want to start with just one or two until you get the hang of things.
2. Choose your absolute best pictures to submit. Some agencies require you to submit 10 pictures for review when you apply for an account with them, while others only require three the first time. Most don't have minimum requirements though, and you can start by submitting just one.
3. Your pictures will be reviewed by humans, and accepted or rejected into the Microstock photography site. If they're accepted, they'll be available for clients to "buy".
Technically they're not fully buying your pictures though. They're simply licensing the pictures for specific use. Usually Microstock photography is used in websites, though sometimes it's used in advertisements, brochures and other marketing materials. The photographer always retains full copyrights to their photos though, and is normally able to sell the same photos over and over again to additional clients.
And this is the beauty of stock photography. Once you've taken a great picture and had it accepted into a stock photography portfolio, that one picture can continue earning you money month after month... sometimes year after year.
Most Microstock photography agencies pay $0.20 - $0.50 per picture license, or download. This may not seem like much, however a good photographer with several hundred pictures for sale could make a nice second income over time, because it all adds up!
There's a lot more to the stock photography business, which we don't have room to cover in just one article. You'll find expanded details about making money with stock photography in this article though: "Can Photographers Make Money With Stock Photography?" found at http://www.stocktography.com/Making-Money.php.
Microstock photography is simply stock photography that's sold at deep discounts. Clients are able to license stock photos for just $1 or $2, and photographers earn money each time a client chooses one of their photos.
Microstock photography is considered to be still in it's infancy, and some people feel it's wrong to sell photography at such low prices. Particularly since many professional photographers invest a lot of time and money on equipment, learning, and photo shoots.
For the beginning photographer though, Microstock photography agencies can be ideal places to start. Since entry requirements are not overly restrictive, many hobby photographers with inexpensive cameras have already started making a nice second income from their pictures.
How Does It Work?
The process of making money from your photography through Microstock agencies is fairly simple.
1. Research popular Microstock photography agencies online. There are quite a few of them, but you'll want to start with just one or two until you get the hang of things.
2. Choose your absolute best pictures to submit. Some agencies require you to submit 10 pictures for review when you apply for an account with them, while others only require three the first time. Most don't have minimum requirements though, and you can start by submitting just one.
3. Your pictures will be reviewed by humans, and accepted or rejected into the Microstock photography site. If they're accepted, they'll be available for clients to "buy".
Technically they're not fully buying your pictures though. They're simply licensing the pictures for specific use. Usually Microstock photography is used in websites, though sometimes it's used in advertisements, brochures and other marketing materials. The photographer always retains full copyrights to their photos though, and is normally able to sell the same photos over and over again to additional clients.
And this is the beauty of stock photography. Once you've taken a great picture and had it accepted into a stock photography portfolio, that one picture can continue earning you money month after month... sometimes year after year.
Most Microstock photography agencies pay $0.20 - $0.50 per picture license, or download. This may not seem like much, however a good photographer with several hundred pictures for sale could make a nice second income over time, because it all adds up!
There's a lot more to the stock photography business, which we don't have room to cover in just one article. You'll find expanded details about making money with stock photography in this article though: "Can Photographers Make Money With Stock Photography?" found at http://www.stocktography.com/Making-Money.php.
Photography Equipment & Accessories
A remarkably-wide range of accessories for cameras and photographic applications is available to today’s photographer. Knowing what is generally available, what purposes the items serve and what your accessory needs are likely to be - based on the kinds of photography you intend to do - will help you to determine which ones you should consider acquiring.
Some accessories, like a solid tripod or a good camera bag, are considered essential for just about all serious photographers, while others, like a wireless remote, are for such specialized applications that most camera users will never have a need for them.
The beginning photographer who fills a shopping bag with a variety of gadgets and gizmos the day he or she buys a camera is likely to find that some items may sit on the shelf, gathering dust. You are better off to use your new camera for a while, assessing your needs as you come across situations in which a particular accessory would be useful. Then, do some research, studying the various characteristics of different makes of the accessory you have decided you need, and choose the one that is right for you, based on its quality, durability, suitability to your personal budget and how well it does what you need it to do. When you see the need for an accessory or camera equipment for a particular one-time application, you may be better off to rent it rather than buy it, unless you feel it will be regularly useful every now and then over time. Compare the rental cost versus the purchase price, and then conservatively estimate how often it will be useful to you. If it pays to buy it and especially if it will help you to make more money over time, then you should consider a purchase.
Some accessory manufacturers are known for the consistently-high quality of their products while others are known for their low prices. Generally-speaking, if you plan on using an accessory a good deal, you should buy a top-of-the-line brand name, one that is known to perform well in a variety of conditions and that is built to last. Your camera’s manufacturer may make a particular accessory itself, which, if you acquire it, will probably be a good match with your camera, at the same level of quality.
Some accessories, like a solid tripod or a good camera bag, are considered essential for just about all serious photographers, while others, like a wireless remote, are for such specialized applications that most camera users will never have a need for them.
The beginning photographer who fills a shopping bag with a variety of gadgets and gizmos the day he or she buys a camera is likely to find that some items may sit on the shelf, gathering dust. You are better off to use your new camera for a while, assessing your needs as you come across situations in which a particular accessory would be useful. Then, do some research, studying the various characteristics of different makes of the accessory you have decided you need, and choose the one that is right for you, based on its quality, durability, suitability to your personal budget and how well it does what you need it to do. When you see the need for an accessory or camera equipment for a particular one-time application, you may be better off to rent it rather than buy it, unless you feel it will be regularly useful every now and then over time. Compare the rental cost versus the purchase price, and then conservatively estimate how often it will be useful to you. If it pays to buy it and especially if it will help you to make more money over time, then you should consider a purchase.
Some accessory manufacturers are known for the consistently-high quality of their products while others are known for their low prices. Generally-speaking, if you plan on using an accessory a good deal, you should buy a top-of-the-line brand name, one that is known to perform well in a variety of conditions and that is built to last. Your camera’s manufacturer may make a particular accessory itself, which, if you acquire it, will probably be a good match with your camera, at the same level of quality.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Retouching And Improving Your Photographs - Photoshop Makes It Possible
Digital imaging and more specifically Adobe Photoshop as well as other image editing software
have revolutionized photography. The advances in digital image manipulation now allow for unlimited possibilities in the area of improving photographs through retouching and restoration.
What types of improvements are possible by retouching photographs with Photoshop?
Blemishes
Embarrassing skin blemishes like acne or scars can easily be removed using the retouching tools available in Adobe Photoshop. You can learn these Photoshop techniques in minutes.
Damage to Prints
The benefits of digital imaging for restoring old damaged or worn out photographs are one of the best reasons to learn Photoshop. Once an old photograph is scanned it can be retouched to remove tears in the paper or water marks. You can also restore colors that have faded over time. Once you have retouched your image and it is like new again it will last forward because digital images do not deteriorate over time like prints.
Closed Eyes
This is one of the most common problems with group photographs. You finally got the entire family together for a family photograph including Aunt Martha only to find that she closed her eyes. Closed eyes are not a problem for a skilled user of Photoshop. You can easily open her eyes and no one will ever know.
Removing unwanted Subjects
Not only can you remove blemishes in Adobe Photoshop but another common use of Photoshop’s retouching capabilities involves removing unwanted people or objects. Old boyfriends can be forever removed from photographs quickly and easily if you know what you are doing.
Retouching photographs has never been easier than it is today. Photoshop and other photographic editing software applications have made it a breeze to open closes eyes, remove blemishes and scars, change colors, restore old damaged photographs and remove unwanted objects.
have revolutionized photography. The advances in digital image manipulation now allow for unlimited possibilities in the area of improving photographs through retouching and restoration.
What types of improvements are possible by retouching photographs with Photoshop?
Blemishes
Embarrassing skin blemishes like acne or scars can easily be removed using the retouching tools available in Adobe Photoshop. You can learn these Photoshop techniques in minutes.
Damage to Prints
The benefits of digital imaging for restoring old damaged or worn out photographs are one of the best reasons to learn Photoshop. Once an old photograph is scanned it can be retouched to remove tears in the paper or water marks. You can also restore colors that have faded over time. Once you have retouched your image and it is like new again it will last forward because digital images do not deteriorate over time like prints.
Closed Eyes
This is one of the most common problems with group photographs. You finally got the entire family together for a family photograph including Aunt Martha only to find that she closed her eyes. Closed eyes are not a problem for a skilled user of Photoshop. You can easily open her eyes and no one will ever know.
Removing unwanted Subjects
Not only can you remove blemishes in Adobe Photoshop but another common use of Photoshop’s retouching capabilities involves removing unwanted people or objects. Old boyfriends can be forever removed from photographs quickly and easily if you know what you are doing.
Retouching photographs has never been easier than it is today. Photoshop and other photographic editing software applications have made it a breeze to open closes eyes, remove blemishes and scars, change colors, restore old damaged photographs and remove unwanted objects.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Advantages and Disadvantages of Digital Photography
1. Lesser cost
One of the advantages that digital cameras provide is the fact that it is largely practical and convenient. There is lesser cost in the long run as one need not buy films anymore and will need not develop the pictures the old fashion way. They would only need to charge the batteries, get a reasonably large memory stick and they are good to go.
2. Better storage
Photographers can now store the pictures that they have taken in their computers and in their cds, allowing them to use the memory stick over and over again. There is no more need to store rolls of film and worry that they might disintegrate.
3. Printing convenience
Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that it can be printed at home the same way one would print any kind of file.
4. Trial and Error
Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that one can actually view the photos right after taking it and have the option of erasing it when it is not good. This, according to experts, spoils photographers. Because they can do a take over and over again, they don’t learn the discipline of planning for their shot before actually pressing the button. Still, for the amateur photographer, this is like manna in heaven as this enables them to easily take good photographs and see their mistakes.
Disadvantages
1. Need for Computer literacy
Similar to film photography where you need to be also familiar with working in the dark room, one needs to have a modicum of computer skills. Not only will you be storing your photographs in the computer, operating the camera is like operating a small computer. You really have to be computer literate in order to maximize the functions of your camera.
2. Artistry is lost
There are some that argue that artistry and spontaneity is lost when using a digital camera because photographers do not shoot using various effects. For instance, some would not bother to blur the background anymore because they can fix the photo in Photoshop and other graphic programs. One can do a number of things with the computer, erase flaws, fix red eyes and sharpen some features.
One of the advantages that digital cameras provide is the fact that it is largely practical and convenient. There is lesser cost in the long run as one need not buy films anymore and will need not develop the pictures the old fashion way. They would only need to charge the batteries, get a reasonably large memory stick and they are good to go.
2. Better storage
Photographers can now store the pictures that they have taken in their computers and in their cds, allowing them to use the memory stick over and over again. There is no more need to store rolls of film and worry that they might disintegrate.
3. Printing convenience
Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that it can be printed at home the same way one would print any kind of file.
4. Trial and Error
Another convenience that digital cameras provide is the fact that one can actually view the photos right after taking it and have the option of erasing it when it is not good. This, according to experts, spoils photographers. Because they can do a take over and over again, they don’t learn the discipline of planning for their shot before actually pressing the button. Still, for the amateur photographer, this is like manna in heaven as this enables them to easily take good photographs and see their mistakes.
Disadvantages
1. Need for Computer literacy
Similar to film photography where you need to be also familiar with working in the dark room, one needs to have a modicum of computer skills. Not only will you be storing your photographs in the computer, operating the camera is like operating a small computer. You really have to be computer literate in order to maximize the functions of your camera.
2. Artistry is lost
There are some that argue that artistry and spontaneity is lost when using a digital camera because photographers do not shoot using various effects. For instance, some would not bother to blur the background anymore because they can fix the photo in Photoshop and other graphic programs. One can do a number of things with the computer, erase flaws, fix red eyes and sharpen some features.
Monday, May 10, 2010
The Art of Digital Photography
Many of the techniques used in traditional photography also apply to digital photography. The composition of the picture, use of light, line, shape, pattern, etc. also apply to digital photography. Three elements that are different in digital photography are white balance, picture resolution, and digital effects.
White Balance
In a traditional camera, film records and determines the colors of the scene captured in the photograph. As digital cameras have no film to interpret color, they use white balance settings for this purpose. These settings (called Kelvin temperature ratings) are represented by symbols for sun, indoor light, clouds and shade on most digital displays and can be manually selected. The Auto function, however, enables the camera to adjust the settings automatically. For most non-professional needs, this is quite satisfactory.
Some digital cameras contain a histogram function that will also help you adjust your light exposure.
Resolution
Digital cameras record images in pixels. If you expand a picture on your computer with graphic software by zooming in on the picture, you will eventually see the picture rendered as a series of colored dots. The more dots per inch in a picture, the higher the resolution. High-resolution photos have better image quality and bigger file sizes as well.
Many digital cameras on the market allow the user to select the low or high-resolution settings. Since resolution affects file size, more of the photos taken in low resolution can be stored in your camera at a time. High-resolution images may saved in BMP, TIFF, or RAW image formats. These are large file type images. High resolution settings vary with each camera. A low resolution setting on one camera is a high resolution setting on another. It all depends on the camera’s megapixel resolution that could be anywhere in the range of .1 megapixels to 9.1 megapixels.
Resolution is an important consideration when buying your digital camera. If you are only going to be using your images on the web, very high-resolution images will not be as mandatory for you (although high resolution graphics allow more manipulation of the graphic in graphics software programs). Web images are typically lower resolution images since file size is a consideration for the web. If you are going to be printing your images, however, high resolution is necessary for a quality print. To be able to expand an image for an 8x10 print is going to require a high-resolution graphic for a good quality photo.
Digital Effects
Many digital cameras also have built-in effects that can be used to change the presentation of your photos. Fisheye is an example of one such feature that will reshape an image giving it a totally different effect. Soft-focus, Portrait, Scene, Landscape, and Wide-angle are some of the focusing effect capabilities that your digital cameral may have. These are nice features to have fun with. If you have a graphics software program, your images can be further manipulated once you have downloaded your images to your computer.
White Balance
In a traditional camera, film records and determines the colors of the scene captured in the photograph. As digital cameras have no film to interpret color, they use white balance settings for this purpose. These settings (called Kelvin temperature ratings) are represented by symbols for sun, indoor light, clouds and shade on most digital displays and can be manually selected. The Auto function, however, enables the camera to adjust the settings automatically. For most non-professional needs, this is quite satisfactory.
Some digital cameras contain a histogram function that will also help you adjust your light exposure.
Resolution
Digital cameras record images in pixels. If you expand a picture on your computer with graphic software by zooming in on the picture, you will eventually see the picture rendered as a series of colored dots. The more dots per inch in a picture, the higher the resolution. High-resolution photos have better image quality and bigger file sizes as well.
Many digital cameras on the market allow the user to select the low or high-resolution settings. Since resolution affects file size, more of the photos taken in low resolution can be stored in your camera at a time. High-resolution images may saved in BMP, TIFF, or RAW image formats. These are large file type images. High resolution settings vary with each camera. A low resolution setting on one camera is a high resolution setting on another. It all depends on the camera’s megapixel resolution that could be anywhere in the range of .1 megapixels to 9.1 megapixels.
Resolution is an important consideration when buying your digital camera. If you are only going to be using your images on the web, very high-resolution images will not be as mandatory for you (although high resolution graphics allow more manipulation of the graphic in graphics software programs). Web images are typically lower resolution images since file size is a consideration for the web. If you are going to be printing your images, however, high resolution is necessary for a quality print. To be able to expand an image for an 8x10 print is going to require a high-resolution graphic for a good quality photo.
Digital Effects
Many digital cameras also have built-in effects that can be used to change the presentation of your photos. Fisheye is an example of one such feature that will reshape an image giving it a totally different effect. Soft-focus, Portrait, Scene, Landscape, and Wide-angle are some of the focusing effect capabilities that your digital cameral may have. These are nice features to have fun with. If you have a graphics software program, your images can be further manipulated once you have downloaded your images to your computer.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
How to Hold a Digital Camera
One of the common problems that many new digital (and film) photographers have is ‘camera shake’ where images seem blurry – usually because the camera was not held still enough while the shutter was depressed. This is especially common in shots taken in low light situations where the shutter is open for longer periods of time. Even the smallest movement of the camera can cause it and the only real way to eliminate it is with a tripod.
Adding to camera shake is a technique that is increasingly common with digital camera users of holding the camera at arms length away from them as they take shots – often with one hand. While this might be a good way to frame your shot the further away from your body (a fairly stable thing) you hold the camera the more chance you have of swaying or shaking as you take your shot.
Tripods are the best way to stop camera shake because they have three sturdy legs that keep things very still – but if you don’t have one then another simple way to enhance the stability of the camera is to hold onto it with two hands.
While it can be tempting to shoot one handed a two hands will increase your stillness (like three legs on a tripod being better than one).
Exactly how you should grip your camera will depend upon what type of digital camera you are using and varies from person to person depending upon preference. There is no real right or wrong way to do it but here’s the technique that I generally use:
1. Use your right hand to grip the right hand end of the camera. Your forefinger should sit lightly above the shutter release, your other three fingers curling around the front of the camera. Your right thumb grips onto the back of the camera. Most cameras these days have some sort of grip and even impressions for where fingers should go so this should feel natural. Use a strong grip with your right hand but don’t grip it so tightly that you end up shaking the camera. (keep in mind our previous post on shutter technique – squeeze the shutter don’t jab at it).
2. The positioning of your left hand will depend upon your camera but in in general it should support the weight of the camera and will either sit underneath the camera or under/around a lens if you have a DSLR.
3. If you’re shooting using the view finder to line up your shot you’ll have the camera nice and close into your body which will add extra stability but if you’re using the LCD make sure you don’t hold your camera too far away from you. Tuck your elbows into your sides and lean the camera out a little from your face (around 30cm). Alternatively use the viewfinder if it’s not too small or difficult to see through (a problem on many point and shoots these days).
4. Add extra stability by leaning against a solid object like a wall or a tree or by sitting or kneeling down. If you have to stand and don’t have anything to lean on for extra support put your feet shoulder width apart to give yourself a steady stance. The stiller you can keep your body the stiller the camera will be.
Gripping a camera in this way will allow you flexibility of being able to line up shots quickly but will also help you to hold still for the crucial moment of your shutter being open.
Another quick bonus tip – before you take your shot take a gentle but deep breath, hold it, then take the shot and exhale. The other method people use is the exact opposite – exhale and before inhaling again take the shot. It’s amazing how much a body rises and falls simply by breathing – being conscious of it can give you an edge.
Of course each person will have their own little techniques that they are more comfortable with and ultimately you need to find what works best for you – but in the early days of familiarizing yourself with your new digital camera it’s worth considering your technique.
One last note – this post is about ‘holding a camera’ in a way that will help eliminate camera shake. It’s not rocket science – but it’s amazing how many people get it wrong and wonder why their images are blurry.
There are of course many other techniques for decreasing camera shake that should be used in conjunction with the way you hold it. Shutter speed, lenses with image stabilization and of course tripods can all help
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Top 10 Popular DSLRS
The following DSLRs are the most popular with our readers in their purchases over the last month. We’re listing them in the order of popularity in terms of sales and in the configuration (ie with or without lenses bundled) that they’re selling in best.
1. Canon EOS Rebel T1i
This camera has topped our best selling list for the last few months.
It’s a 15.1 megapixel DSLR which comes with an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 Image Stabilised Lens.
It has a 3.0 inch LCD, full HD video capture, live view framing of images, face detection autofocusing and a good range of features.
The T1i is currently priced at $718.56 at Amazon with the lens or $631.89 body only and is a great choice if you’re looking for an entry level DSLR.
2. Nikon D90 DX
The Nikon D90 DX is a 12.3 megapixel DSLR which comes bundled with an 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 ED AF-S VR lens.
While not Nikon’s newest camera it has many fans in our forums and it is no wonder when you see its feature set including 3.0 inch LCD (high res), Live View framing, Face Detection, Video recording Image sensor cleaning, 4.5 frames per second shooting and a lot more.
The Nikon D90 with it’s 18-105mm lens comes in at $1031.89 or you can grab it Body Only for $794.95. It’s probably one of the best cameras in the ‘enthusiast’ range of cameras and in most reviews I’ve read of it gets a very high rating.
3. Canon EOS 50D
The 50D is another mid range/enthusiast camera that is often put forward in our forums by users as one to consider and it is reflected in the sales figures among our readers. Featuring a 15.1 megapixel image sensor, 3.0 inch LCD, Live View Framing, DIGIC 4 processor and 6.3 frames per second shooting – this camera still packs a punch despite having been on the market for over a year (although no video which is becoming standard on DSLRs).
You can pick up the 50D as a body only unit for $940.89, with a 28-135mm lens for$1,131.89 or an 18-200mm lens for $1499.
4. Canon Digital Rebel XSi
Another popular entry level DSLR from Canon contineus to be the 12.2 megapixel XSi (also known as the 450D in some parts of the world).
Features on this DSLR include a 3.0 inch LCD, DIGIC III processor, dust cleaning, 3.5 frames per second shooting, Live View Framing and a range of other standard DSLR features.
Again – this gets great reviews but is perhaps starting to date a little (although is selling well according to our figures.
The Canon XSi retails on Amazon for $521.89 as a body only purchase (and a little more for a silver one). You can also pick it up with an 18-55mm lens for $556.80.
5. Nikon D5000
Nikon’s turn – with their 12.3 Megapixel DSLR.
It’s another entry level offering but this one a little more up to date than others, having been released this year – plus it has a few extra features and probably puts it in the upper end of the entry level spectrum.
Feature wise it has a 2.7 inch tilt and swivel LCD, 720p HD Movie capture, Live View, Face Detection, 11 AF points and 4 frames per second shooting.
The D5000 is getting great reviews and takes great images for something of this price point.
Speaking of price – the D5000 bundled with an 18-55mm lens (the most popular bundle we’ve seen sold) retails at Amazon for $651.89 or body only for $599.99.
6. Nikon D3000
The little brother to the D5000, this 10.2 megapixel camera has been a popular buy with those right at the entry level of DSLR purchases. In fact at present the D3000 is the top selling DSLR on Amazon.
Features include a 3.0 inch LCD, Image sensor cleaning, 11 AF points and 3 frames per second shooting. Missing in comparison are a number of features including Live View, no automatic chromatic aberation correction, slower burst shooting, no tilt and swivel LCD. It also does not have a video mode.
The price of the D3000 will be attractive to many – with an 18-55mm lens it is $469.99 and body only it’s just $419.95.
7. Canon EOS 7D
One of the newest cameras on this list is Canon’s 18 megapixel 7D – a camera that has had ALOT of press this year.
This is a camera for the serious enthusiast (in fact I know a couple of pros who have this as their 2nd camera) and it is feature rich (a true big brother to the 50D mentioned above). Features include – Dual DIGIC 4 processors, 100% viewfinder, 19 point AF system, 8 frames per second shooting, built in flash (that can control external flashes), 1080p HD video, 3.0 inch LCD and environmental sealing.
In some ways this is actually a better camera than the Canon EOS 5D Mark II – and if you don’t need a full frame sensor this could be one to consider.
Getting very high ratings – the Canon EOS 7D is priced at $1699.95 as a body only package or with a 28-135mm lens is $1899.99 (although if I were spending that much on a body I’d want to grab an L series lens to put on it).
8.Nikon D300S
In a similar space to the Canon EOS 7D we find the D300S. While lower megapixels (it has a 12 MP sensor) it’s got a great feature list. The D300 (its predecessor) was widely regarded as the top of its class by many and the 300S is a worthy update.
Features include – 720p 24 frames per second HD video (with some in camera movie editing), 7 frames per second shooting, 3.0 inch LCD, image sensor cleaning, 51 AF points, Live View and a lot more.
A camera for those who are serious about their photography the Nikon D300S is priced at $1575.95 as body only or for an 18-200mm lens bundled with it you’ll be paying $2,427.70.
9.Pentax K-7
Yay! Finally a non Canon or Nikon in the list. We promise we’re not biased, we’re just reporting what people are buying from our readership!
The Pentax K-7 DSLR is a 14.6 megapixel DSLR. It has a 3.0 inch LCD, Live View framing, Moving Mode (1280×720p 30fps moview), 5.2 frames per second shooting and weather/dust/cold resistant body.
The K-7 has a retail price on Amazon of $1,114.95 when bundled with a 18-55mm lens.
10. Olympus Evolt E520
Rounding out our top 10 list is a DSLR from Olympus which will appeal to the entry level DSLR buyer.
This camera was released this year and features a four-thirds 10 megapixel sensor, in body image stabilization, face detection, shadow adjustment, Live View and more.
While it’s features are not as advanced as some of the other cameras above for its price it’s going to be very attractive to many – Body Only it is $399.92 and bundled with a 14-42mm lens it is $449.95.
Have Your Say
There you have it – the top 10 most popular DSLRs among our readers when it comes to purchases over the last couple of months.
Of course as with all of these types of posts there will be debate over whether the cameras should be ordered in that order or whether others should have made the list – but in the end this is just a list based upon our community’s spending patterns.
Is your camera in the list? If so – which one is it? If not – what have you bought?
Top 20 of DSLR
Lets look at a quick breakdown of the mix of DSLRs by Manufacturer where as you’d expect Canon and Nikon dominate the market if DPS readers are anything to go by.
Cameras are listed from most popular to least popular (and I’ve given an indication of what percentage of recipients own the top 7):
1. Canon Digital Rebel XT (350D) - an 8 megapixel DSLR first announced back in February 2005 – this DSLR made up 17% of the total
2. Canon Digital Rebel XTi (400D) – (pictured) a 10.1 megapixel update of the XT, August 2006 – this DSLR had 12% of the total
3. Nikon D80 - a 10.2 megapixel DSLR – announced in August 2006 – 10% of those participating
4. Nikon D50 – 6.1 megapixels, announced in April 2005 – 8% of the total
5. Nikon D40- 6.1 megapixel DSLR announced in November 2006 – 6%
6. Nikon D200 - 10.2 megapixels and announced in November 2005 – 6%
7. Sony Alpha A100 – another 10.2 megapixel DSLR announced in June 2006 – 6%
8. Canon EOS 20D- announced way back in April 2004 – a very popular 8.2 megapixel DSLR
9. Nikon D70S – 6.1 megapixels and an upgrade/redesign of the D70 – announced April 2005
10. Canon EOS 30D – an 8.2 megapixel midrange DSLR and an upgrade of the 20D – announced in Feb 2006
11. Olympus Evolt E500 - 8 megapixels – September 2005
12. Canon EOS 5D - August 2005 was when this ground breaking 12.8 megapixel camera was announced
13. Nikon D70 – another ground breaker for it’s day in December 2003 (the 2nd oldest camera in the list) – 6.1MP
14. Pentax K100D 6.1MP Digital SLR Camera Shake Reduction (Body Only)” (Pentax) – 6.1 megapixels announced in May 2006
15. Canon Digital Rebel – 300D – another oldie (October 2003) – 6.5MP
16. Pentax K10D – 10.2 megapixels with in body shake reduction – September 2006
17. Canon EOS-10D - 6.3 megapixels – December 2003
18. Nikon D40x - a 10.2 megapixel update of the popular D40 and the newest camera in the mix with an announcement date of March 2007
19. Konica Minolta Maxxum 5D – 6.1MP DSLR – July 2005
20. Pentax *ist DS - 6.1 megapixel update of the *ist D – September 2004
How to Decide Which DSLR Camera is for You?
So how do you decide which DSLR to buy? There are an increasing array of them on the market so you have a real choice ahead of you.
Here are a few factors to consider when looking for a DSLR:
1. Price – a good place to start when thinking about buying a DSLR is obviously price. DSLRs price range in price from some quite affordable deals at the lower end to extremely high prices at the professional end. Set yourself a budget for your purchase early on but make sure that you keep in mind that you’ll need to consider other costs of owning one including:
* Lenses (some deals offer ‘kit lenses’ but you should consider upgrading – see below for more on this)
* Batteries (all models will come with one but if you are travelling you might need a spare)
* Memory Cards (some models come with one but most are inadequate in terms of size. Even if you’re lucky enough to have one included you’ll probably want to upgrade to at least a 1 gigabyte card).
* Camera Bag (some dealers will throw one in – but once again don’t expect a high quality ‘free’ bag. Your DSLR is something worth protecting – invest in a good bag)
* Filters (at the least you’ll want to get a UV filter for each lens you purchase – but you might also want to consider other types down the track also).
* Extended Warrantees (there’s a variety of opinions on whether they’re good or not – but they’re worth considering)
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